¡Este y ese!

Below are some pictures from my week.  …the old city and my current neighborhood: Ayora.  I did take a two hour “old city” tour.  The metro is around the corner, and I’ve become metro savvy and haven’t gotten lost yet.   This is a small miracle considering I am terrified of the NYC subway system.

 

Above are 1 of 2 of the oldest gates in the city dating back to the 14th century.  Valencia at one time was a walled city.  Some Christmas nativity and one Santa siting.

And of course, some food.   That day, I enjoyed a lunch-time menu de dia: salad, eggplant, vino and fresh fruit.   That delicious looking Jamon/cheese/tomato and café was from the morning before.

Here are a couple of online myths I read before I got here.

1.  Don’t wear this and don’t wear that.  No sneakers.   FALSE.   Unless you want to kill your feet and your back, wear comfortable sneaker/shoes for any lengthy walking.  I have 2 pair of eccos and they are perfect.   I have not seen many high-heels around here.  TRUE:  People in general dress much nicer here than in the U.S.  They are not running around in sweatpants and hoodies.   Haven’t not seen one hoodie.  I also have not seen one person with a water bottle!
2. People speak English.  FALSE.  At least in Valencia, aside from Linda/Janis, the only English speaker I have met is Luisa, the woman at the bank who helped me open my account.  Immersion is happening.

Here are a few online truths I read about before I got here:

1.  Valencia is affordable for retirees.   TRUE
2. Food is fresh and Jamon (ham) and seafood rule.  TRUE
3. Groceries are cheap.  TRUE
4. Coffee is strong.  TRUE
5. December has mild, good weather.  TRUE
6. People are helpful, warm and friendly. TRUE
7. You need a VPN to watch Netflix and American TV.  TRUE
8. Siesta is alive and well.  TRUE.  (Most places except restaurants are closed between 2-5 p.m.).

I had my first two social meet-ups over the weekend.  Both people I met up with were a result of Christopher’s involvement, so I thank him here for sharing his friends & contacts with me!  

I did learn this past weekend about the awful state of affairs in the country of Venezuela because I had coffee with a Venezuelan woman who is seeking asylum in Valencia.   I only have one thought:

Gratitude.  For.  My.  Life.

Note:  Christmas Eve, 1955.  My parents were married.

Caterina 

¡Todo en un dia de trabajo!

Seafood.  Many of us love it.   In Spain, it is harvested primarily in Galicia where the Atlantic and the Mediterranean get together for a salty beverage.  Galicia and nearby San Sebastian are on my “must see” “get the hell out of this boiler room city of Valencia” this summer.   AHEM.

Galicia is in the northeast section of Spain and considered seafood heaven, and apparently Christmas in Valencia = seafood.  So I took the opportunity to visit the Central Market today and get me some seafood because there were extra special offerings for Christmas.  I went to the vendor whose seafood stock was quite low (it was 2 p.m almost siesta time) as an indication that her seafood was excellent. Fortunately, I had my very own translator, a friend of the vendor who happened to be standing around and spoke some English.  She helped me procure 1.5 kilos of shrimp (sounds like a ton/ I mean a KILO), which translates into ALOT of shrimp.  Some to eat now– some to freeze.   Here is what they looked like at the market:

Of course I wanted the ones that looked like they came from Wegmans.  When that was not about to happen, I decided to be a temporary sort-of, kind-of non-squeamish Spaniard, and I went for it with the heads and all.

I did find out that many Spaniards eat the heads, and I was already wishing I knew a Spaniard who I could give all those heads to.   I got home and did the prep.   My first ever beheading project which didn’t bother me as much as I thought it would.   Then came the shelling which was a little rough on the hands.   And then…what? Deveining?  Ugh.   No deveining tools.  So a sharp, purple knife did the job.

During this tedious task, I heard Bruce’s voice encouraging me, but let’s be real:  then I heard his voice say, “Jo-AAAAANNNNN please give me that knife right now before you hurt yourself. “  Which was a huge possibility, considering my record with knives. 

HA.  No cuts. Deveining done. Only bc my brother was sprinkling some chef fairy dust over me.

This is not shrimp that needs cocktail sauce.  I’m talking the sweetest, best tasting shrimp I’ve ever had.   This was a huge step in the squeamish department.   Yes, I am going to eat these shrimp with only lemon which is good because I don’t think cocktail sauce is a grocery item here.   Not for people who eat shrimp heads.  

La semana en revisión…

¡ Nuevo Apartamento !

On viernes (Friday), I moved into airbnb #2.  It’s newish and in a neighborhood that is nice enough except for the PIGEONS.   No need to elaborate.   I can only hope with every cell in my body that the pigeons stay here and don’t follow me to my permanent neighborhood in Trinitat.  And those warbling witches can tell all their friends to stay the heck out of Trinitat too.  The final move is on December 28th.

Aiora is where I am now

view from my window

Aiora is where I am now & this is a view from my first floor window.

¡Es el domingo de español!

Spanish Sunday is like old, old fashioned American Sunday..   Most people don’t work, stores have limited hours, families get together for big meals and walks in the park.    Growing up, we used to have dinner some Sundays at my nana & grandpa’s house, I played cards with Uncle Charlie/Nana Rose, helped Nana Kay in the kitchen, visited with Grandpa and shared the soup bone marrow with Uncle Lenny-spread on rye bread. It was just the normal thing to do.   I like Spanish Sunday and I’ve missed American Sunday – what happened to it?

In the park today near the airbnb, I noticed the stunning variety of tree life.  Trees are very important to me;  I am so happy to see many shade trees living in harmony with palm trees and hot weather trees.

 

Cafė 

So I don’t have my own coffee pot.  In the last airbnb,  I drank espressos in a Keurig type machine.  Here I am drinking Nescafe INSTANT coffee – no coffee maker here!

Desparate times call for desperate measures: 

Found this in the Consum refrigerator section.  For those of you who are wondering, I did get to the bottom of the sour cream mystery.  Spain is not a sour cream country.   Who knew? Now that the latke party is over, it is not as urgent.  And, no, I have not found creme fraiche yet. HOWEVER, I did find plenty of olives stuffed with anchovies and sure was glad I had google translator before I jumped in and bought a can of olives.

Some pics from my recent grocery trip. The lovely jamón pic is for cuz Todd.  These honkin’ big meaty things were in all four of the groceries I’ve been in.

By the way the cheese is “truffle” cheese, typically very expensive…it is delicious and it is a lot of cheese for an incredible price.  I love the white paper, shiny inside, that the cheese was wrapped in.  Little thrills. The Señora cheese lady and I had a passionate discussion about the best vino de Rioja to go with the cheese.  I didn’t understand most of what she said, but her facial expressions and oohs and ahhh noises told the whole story.

I did buy a piece of salmon and a piece of cod and luckily these pieces were not attached to a head.   I did not buy ice cream, bc I was distracted by the thrill of the trip:  barilla sauce. That was a way better purchase than ice cream.   I will probably go back and buy at least 6 more.

¡Tenga buen dia y disfruta el domingo de americano!

Love, Caterina

 

 

¡Feliz sábado!

Today I ventured out to the grocery store – grocery shopping is an all afternoon event even for 15 items.  That is because there are very few English speakers here and my Spanish is quite limited.  Thanks to my New Paltz profesora that I know how much I know!!

I am walking about a mile each way which is great, but I have to be mindful of how many heavy items I want to carry back until I buy a shopping cart to take to and from the store.

I decided I wanted to make latkes tomorrow so I bought the ingredients.  The only item I could not find was sour cream.  This was about a 20 minute search and involved at least 4 employees.   It felt a little bit like a silly Jewish/Spanish movie.  I did not panic as I was certain I would find applesauce as a back up—which I did.  I am still going to get to the bottom of the sour cream mystery.  I did see A LOT of yogurt in the store.

Who woulda thunk it?   I bought the peanut butter along with some peach jam. Not the Nutella.

Here is what I carried back and paid 17eu for.  I now can prepare these platos (dishes):  hamburgers, rice & beans, tortellini with tomato sauce, spinach with cucumber & tomato, latkes, eggs, peanut butter & jelly sandwiches.

También tengo manzanas, (I also have apples), black licorice, potato chips and guacamole!  This should get me by for a week or so.

Decorative orange trees line many of the streets.

I was creative about my menorah and candles this year and here is what I came up with.  Happy Hanukkah to those who observe the Festival of Lights!Tenga buen dia y stay warm.  Temps today:  16-20c (mid 60’s to 70).  It does get chilly in the evening and in the morning – 40’s and 50’s.  I know that’s a heat wave for you guys, right?  Haha.

Jo-Ann Caterina

¡Una semana exitosa!

Hola amigos y familia,

This has been a very busy and productive week with a lot to tell.  Could be why I slept until 16:20h (12:20 p.m.) today!

On lunes (Monday), très de décembre, Linda (my relocator) and I started the apartment search intensely, and by martes (Wednesday), we found an excellent choice and took an apartment in the neighborhood called Trinitat (a.k.a. Trinidad) which is an ideal location on the outskirts of the old city (a.k.a.) city center.

We are having a té (tea – it’s late) and a sweet snack after a long day on the hunt.   That is Linda.  She is super swell and sweet.   Not in a million years, could I do this without Linda and Janis (partner & boyfriend).   They started the business 11 years ago.

As a Western New Yorker, I am dressing like the Spaniards with a jacket, light sweater and boots; it is winter here –  but in reality I’m fairly warm – no complaints, but the Americans would be parading around in sundresses and shorts in these daytime temps  66-70 (18-21c)  in NY.  I am starting to use centigrade and military time because that is how the country works, so when in Europe, … just do it! For example, now it is 18:26h (6:26 p.m.).

This map shows you how close my new neighborhood is to the old city and the beach; it is also a short walk to the Turia river bed (park), neighborhood of Beniclamet and the royal gardens.  It is a quiet neighborhood – a respite from the busy city life, which is the perfect situation for me.  I will go to the busy and come back to the quiet!

The apartment is like new and on the 7/8 floor with an elevator.  Each floor has only one apartment and the entrance is gated.  I had to come all the way to Spain to live in a newly remodeled place within a gated community for an incredible price!  So, I am very happy.  I will be moving to a second airbnb on the 14th and then into the new apartment around the 29-31 of December.

I will leave you with pictures of the old city.  There is an ice skating rink there and people were skating on bright orange skates – that is in video form.  (can’t upload yet).   My main goal was an authentic Spanish meal and as you see, I found it!

view from close to my neighborhood

first Spanish meal seafood paella

the tapas menu

good wine and nuts

This is seafood paella with good red wine & nuts and the tapas menu.    MUY DELICIOSO!

Tenga buen dia!

J.C.

Estoy aqui!!

I am here!  This is a short post to say I had a terrific international flight with Swiss Air (chocolate was provided), I am settled in my airbnb and have a few days worth of groceries (wine incl.–3 euros for a bottle of rosé).  And the bonus:  sun & blue sky!

Here are a few pictures of my first day in VALENCIA!!

groceries 38 euros

espresso in the flat

laundry outside is popular

view from flat window 5th floor

Many WARM thanks to Linda, Janis and Massimo for all they did for me today!

Countdown

WELCOME  to my blog:    caterinaINspain.

On November 30th at 9:00 a.m. I will plant my two feet in Valencia, Spain!  Take a one year journey with me as I immerse myself in Spanish culture.  Hasta Pronto!